RHYS CONLON is confident of making a great display at sport climbing’s European lead championships in Finland next month, despite a frustrating time at the world championships in South Korea.
The Horsell-based 16-year-old took part in the International Federation of Sport Climbing’s Youth World Championships in Seoul and was left to rue “someone else’s error” in the lead youth A male section that left him floundering in 29th place in qualifying.
The situation was better in the bouldering youth A male category, where he finished 15th in the semi-final.
Conlon told the News & Mail: “My first impression of South Korea was it was hot.
“I bumped into lots of Scouts who had to abandon the World Jamboree – and now I understand why.
“The heat and humidity were crazy. I’d not experienced anything like it.
“So I had a few days getting acclimatised, and I got some training at the local facilities. South Korea is really switched on to competition-style climbing with brilliant commercial boulder gyms all over the place. Britain has a lot to learn.
“Going into the lead – roped – competition I had high hopes of a top-eight finish after successive podiums on the European circuit.
“Frustratingly, a huge error by the route setters – the people employed to create the routes – meant I was unable to reach a hold, so fell low on my first qualifier. This happened to many others, including some of the favourites and top athletes.
“I managed to get some places back by getting really high on route two, compared to other athletes. But it was too far to come back from. It’s really frustrating when you can’t show your best because of someone else’s error.
“Heavy rain forced the bouldering competition behind curtains, turning the wall into a greenhouse. This made conditions really difficult for me, along with many of the other Europeans, to compete in and keep friction with the holds.
“Only six of the 20 athletes in the semis were Europeans, a very rare occurrence with Europe being the dominant continent in climbing.
“I still qualified safely and am fairly pleased with my ultimate 15th place in the semi-final. I expected better – but the heat and humidity were extreme.
“I mustn’t deny I also made some mistakes on the boulders in the semi, but many of Europe’s big hitters didn’t even qualify.
“Despite the competition being a little frustrating, the experience was amazing – South Korea is a brilliant country with great people, and I finished off my trip by getting to experience the local culture.
“I’m really grateful to all the people who donated to help me get to South Korea. I couldn’t have done it without them.
“This season has been the breakthrough in my international career, with medals and my senior debut.”
Now Conlon is preparing for the International Federation of Sport Climbing European Youth Lead Championships, which are being held in Helsinki from September 15 to 17.
He said: “I’m really looking forward to it. My lead form’s great – so I’m pretty confident.”